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Good Food!

No Corners Cut in Outlaw Breakfast — Really IS the Biggest Club Sandwich Allowed by Law — Hold the Greasy Spoon

Restaurant: Virg's
Cuisines: American Diner Favorites
Location: 5570 S. Redwood Road, Taylorsville (Map); 4025 Highway 6, Erda (Map)
Price Range:
B — See Foodie Report

I have been to Virg's in Erda (near Tooele), but it had been a few years. So, when I saw that one opened in Taylorsville, I thought: "Cool! Wonder if it's as good as I remember?" The food is good, but there are some places where they're taking the term "greasy spoon" too literally.

The location in Taylorsville used to be a Winger's, and that's clear. They've done a few things on the outside to make it look a little less like a silver fifth wheel, but it's still obvious.  Inside, they've done a little more to give it a sense of being a Virg's, like the seacoast paintings and other mariner-type decorations, which are nice. But the "winged W" stamped into the concrete floor will probably always be there.

I took my kids for Sunday breakfast/lunch, and found that the place was pretty busy. Nonetheless, the sign said "Seat Yourself." So we did, only able to find a spot big enough for all of us in the back room, around the corner.  The floor was wet in one corner, and it had sat there long enough to have a little bit of a white crust around the puddle where it was drying. But I was not as concerned about the puddle as I was about us sitting in the back. I was worried that no one would have noticed us going back there, but a waitress came out pretty quickly to take our drink order. She was new on the job, I think, because she started to leave without enough drinks ordered to cover all my kids. Then she came out short one drink and had to make another trip. By that time, we were ready to order.

I ordered the Outlaw Breakfast. This is a similar plate to the House breakfast at some of the Greek family restaurants around town, with two eggs, three meats, and hash browns covered with two kinds of cheese. I asked if I could get double bacon, instead of sausage, and she seemed unsure.  So I told her that I got it that way in Tooele, and she seemed to feel better about it. My kids ordered, and she was off, coming back when I reminded her that she had only given us two straws when she gave us our drinks, and had forgotten to get them for us when she came back with the drink she had forgotten.

The wait for our meal was a little longer than it should have been. They were busy, but the table beside us ordered right before we did, and they were halfway through their meal before our food even arrived. It was when I was noting their meals arriving so quickly that I saw one of the people there react to dirty silverware. So I checked my own, and found that my spoon was literally coated with grease. I don't think that it had been through the washer. I had the rest of the kids check theirs, but they were clean. If there's something that grosses me out, it's dirty silverware. Also, it took two more trips for two of us to get the toast we ordered; one that came was supposed to be wheat and came out white; my daughter's kids meal cheese burger came out without cheese, but she said that it was still good, so I didn't mention it to the waitress.  The explanation offered about the toast was, "Someone keeps
taking my toast!" as she hurried away again. Oh. OK. So I started to eat.

First words out of my mouth when I took the first bite: "Wow. That's good bacon."

It was thick sliced, well smoked, and cooked perfectly. It wasn't a piece of undercooked rubber like I've encountered in some places, nor was it a brittle piece of bacon jerky. It was chewy, with a good amount of the fat cooked out of it. (Which had set up on my original spoon, apparently.) The ham was also good. It was sliced thicker than the similar meal at Jim's Family Restaurant, and it was not pressed ham, but cut from a non-processed piece of smoked meat. The hash browns were covered with American cheese and probably white American, although the menu said it was Swiss. Still good, but not quite what I was expecting.

All in all, a good meal, and they certainly didn't scrimp on quantity. At Virg's, you get a good bang for your buck.

It was a little disconcerting when my bill came, and I found that I was charged for the cheese my daughter didn't get, and I was charged for two drinks, when they were supposed to be included with two kids meals. But that was handled easily enough at the register. In fact, when the woman was having trouble getting the computer to fix the problem, she charged me for the price it should have been, and said she would "fix the computer-thing later." Which
was nice.

Worst thing about the visit: the greasy spoon. Ick.

When I went to Virg's the second time, they had done a little more to redecorate, adding what appeared to be bamboo mats along the ceiling, which makes it feel like you're in a river hut. Kind of a nice touch.

Unlike last time I was there, all the tables were wiped down. It was Sunday and the place was half-full, but they were keeping up on bussing. Always a good thing. So I had my choice of where to sit. Then, for no apparent reason, the waitress didn't come out to take my drink order for quite a while. When she did, I asked a few questions about the breakfast sandwich (what kind of bread) and a couple other breakfast items. (It's my favorite meal of the day.)  When she answered the question about the sandwich, she said it was thick-sliced bread, like on the Club Sandwich. And she pointed at a picture on the menu. And, just like that, I thought, "That looks good" and changed my mind. So I ordered the Club Sandwich, which they claim is the "biggest allowed by law" and had to choose between fries, spicy fries, salad, onion rings or soup of the day. The soup was Clam Chowder, and I don't do fish, so I ordered the spicy fries and asked for a side of blue-cheese dressing. If you're eating a triple-decker Club Sandwich that already has two kinds of cheese on it, then blue cheese just takes it to the next level.

And the wait resumed.

I'm not sure why it took so long to make a cold sandwich, but it did.  Might have been the fries … but really. By the time my meal arrived, I had finished my first glass of Dr. Pepper, which she refilled, as well as getting my side of blue cheese dressing, which she had forgotten.

First words out of my mouth: "What a great looking club."

The four wedges (each one the size of two wedges at other restaurants) were arranged at the edges of the plate, with a nice mound of spicy fries in the center.

First words out of my mouth when I took the first bite: "Wow. That is a great club."

It is a triple-decker, with thick-sliced bread, ham, turkey and bacon, lettuce and tomato, and both Swiss and American cheese. Too many restaurants leave off the ham on their club sandwiches. The bacon is the same thick-sliced, perfectly cooked stuff that I enjoyed so much with the Outlaw Breakfast. But, what was even more surprising was the turkey.  Most places use thinly sliced turkey, be it breast or processed.

Not at Virg's.

At Virg's the turkey is sliced thick from a real roasted turkey breast. And it's awesome. Even the tomatoes are hand sliced, not the thin slices pushed through the tomato slicer. Where so many places are saying "tomatoes extra" right now, Virg's is packing on extra. I honestly didn't think that I was going to be able to finish it. Particularly when I had to unhinge my jaw like an anaconda and assume Guy Fieri's hunch to eat the thing. But I managed. And did so with great pleasure.

The Spicy Fries were also very good. There was plenty of the spicy breading on them, and I could taste garlic that was very nice. They were medium thickness (not the string fries like at East Cost Subs or steak fries or potato wedges). The waitress dropped off a squeeze bottle of fry sauce with them, and that was really the most disappointing thing in my meal. Anybody can mix up ketchup and mayo. With so many other upgrades in this sandwich, why not throw in a little liquid smoke in the fry sauce (like Neil's Broiler) or use mayo and BBQ sauce (like Training Table)? I dipped the fries a little in my blue cheese, which was good, but maybe that was why I didn't end up finishing them all. I mean, you started down the road to Spicy Fry Flavor Town, why not finish the trip?

When finished, I definitely had that life-is-good feeling that was amplified by the need to unhook the top button on my jeans.  (I didn't; didn't want to scare the locals.)

When I went up to the register to pay my bill, the owner rang me out.  I told him I didn't think I was going to be able to finish the whole sandwich. He smiled, nodding, and said, "I know I can't."

Enough said. Foodie Report

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     food·ie (fd)
     noun. Slang.  A person who has an ardent or refined interest in food; a gourmet.