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Good Food!

El Rey De Oro Taqueria — Sweet and Spicy Pastor — Bring It!

Restaurant: El Re De Oro Taqueria
Cuisines: Mexican
Location: 1652 W. 9000 S., West Jordan (Map)
Price Range: $1.00–$11.99
Grade: B+ — See Foodie Report

There have been several restaurants at this location over the years, and I have been to them all, dating all the way back to the original: the first Hogi Yogi I ever saw. The current occupant is El Rey de Oro Taqueria, and I really hope that they can make a real go of it.

Inside, the décor was simple, but functional, and extremely clean. The table tops were formica (or something like it), with benches in the booths like I've seen in some high-school cafeterias, as well as some tables, but the walls are faux finished in a nice earthy orange, with a wall paper runner showing paintings of fruit. There's a little TV in the corner with a DVD player, and spaces where it appears they will be adding some prints of paintings or photographs from around Mexico. (Right now, they're black squares covered with Plexiglass.) The temperature was a little cold, but the smell of the place was just the kind of appetizer you want when entering a restaurant.

You order at the counter, pay up front, standard fare. But that's about where the "standard" part ends. The menu is somewhat similar to Beto's or those host of Mexican restaurants that are popping up around Utah like dandelions. But El Rey de Oro is not just another Beto's look alike.

I asked the woman at the register what was good, and she gave me the standard response: "Everything is good." But, unlike other places, where that is the copout answer, she followed it with some suggestions of top-selling items, what makes one different from another, etc. I decided on a pork burrito, but decided not to have it smothered, because the non-smothered burritos have whole pinto beans, not refried beans, and I was up for something a little different. Then, as she was ringing me up, I moved a little to the side, and saw, on a vertical rotisserie behind her, some red-orange meat, almost like the gyro meat at a Greek restaurant. I said, "What is that?" She said, "That's Pastor. It's a spicy-sweet pork." I asked if it came in a burrito. She said it did, and that the burrito had onions and cilantro, but what really makes it good is the pineapple. I said, "I want that." And a better decision could not have been made.

The burrito combo came with a 16-oz. drink, which came in a no-frills styrofoam cup, and I sat at one of the impeccably clean tables. She gave me a number, but I didn't need it, because they were not very busy. There was no music playing overhead, and I noticed a jukebox in the corner. Then, out of nowhere, Styx starts playing overhead, a bit too loudly. Then it was gone. A little later, a live recording of a Robert Plant song I didn't know came on, also too loud, but still something I enjoyed. It just needed to be turned down at bit. And why there was no music in between (or why it would play for no apparent reason was beyond me.)

When my meal was done, a man brought it out to a window like in the old diners in the movies, and called out, "It's ready!"  He waited for me to pick it up, all smiles, and said, "You're gonna love this." And he was right.

The burrito was wrapped in foil, and was absolutely big enough for a meal. It had a little bit of a side with a large chile and some carrot slices that had been partially cooked and marinated in pepper juice. (I love those at Beto's, but these were not as hot, and being partially cooked took away a little something, without that sharp crunch.) It was all on a styrofoam plate.

First words out of my mouth when I took the first bite: "Wow.  That's amazing."

The sweet-and-spicy sauce was a deep red-brown, the pork slivered into pieces a little bigger and thicker than had it been shredded. The amount of cilantro was perfect, as was the number of diced onions. And every bite that had pineapple was a new experience in Mexican food.  I love pineapple with pork, but this was something unlike anything I have ever had, and it was just amazing. When I got to the end of the burrito, and I was out of pineapple, the sauce that settled into the bottom of the burrito made up for the absence of pineapple through just intensity in flavor. At one point, I wanted to see how the pork stood up with some added heat, and drizzled on some hot sauce they had at the counter (imported from Mexico) and was not disappointed.  The only thing that would make it better was if there was more pineapple (even four more chunks would go a long way) because it's the contrast in those flavors that makes that brings that baby home. Best of all, it left me with that life-is-good feeling.  And all for just $3!

Worst thing about the visit: just too cold in there.

Last words when finishing the meal: "I'd come back here in a heartbeat."

I was excited to go in on my second visit, after the pleasure of the first one. I wanted another Pastor burrito, but curbed my enthusiasm in order to hit something else on the menu, hoping that it was as good as last time.

Inside, the décor was unchanged, except that the TV was on.  It was playing programming in Spanish, with music and over-the-top antics, and was on too loud. One gentleman who came in after me winced at the volume, then started gyrating to the beat to make up for it (I have a feeling, because he was worried people saw him flinch). As before, the temperature was a little cold, but it smelled just as good as ever.  (My mouth had started watering in the parking lot.)

I asked for a recommendation at the counter (same woman waiting on me as before). She suggested the smothered chile verde burrito. This was perfect, because it's one of my mainstays at Mexican restaurants. She then asked me what meat I wanted in it. I thought, "I have options?" What a pleasant surprise! I was tempted to go with the pastor (it was excellent), but opted for the other end of the spectrum, and went with chicken.

The burrito combo came with a 16-oz. drink, which came in the same no-frills styrofoam cup, and I had to sit closer to the pickup window, because it was busier than last time, and a couple of the tables weren't wiped down yet.

When my meal was done, a man brought it out to a window like in the old diners in the movies, and called out, "Diez!"  I picked it up and offered to hand him my stub identifying me as number 10, but he smiled and shook his head, then walked away.

The burrito was good sized, smothered in chile verde, and came with Spanish rice and beans. All on a styrofoam plate that threatened to snap under the weight.  (They might want to look into something a little thicker for the smothered burritos.)

First words out of my mouth when I took the first bite: "Man.  That just screams out 'Comfort food.'"

The chile verde was very flavorful and somewhat spicy.  I would have preferred a little more heat, but I heard a woman nearby (another Gringo) saying that it was almost too spicy for her. But each bite just settled in, giving me a warm and almost calming feeling that comes with good food, well prepared.  The rice was very flavorful, with a hint of the flavor of pork fat and, in the words of Emeril, "Pork fat rules."

The only thing that would make it better was if there was more heat. I like spicy food, and a little more would've really taken it home.  And all for only $4!

Worst thing about the visit: too cold in there and the TV was on too loud (even louder than the music last time). I think that they must be a little hard of hearing there, or they're on their way to it.

Last words when finishing the meal: "I'll be bahk." And I even had the sunglasses.

FoodUtah.com Foodie Report

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